The Fashion Industry’s Waste Crisis: A Global Challenge with Local Impacts

The global fashion industry is facing a sustainability crisis of historic proportions. According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the sector is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions and is among the top three industries for water consumption worldwide. The environmental footprint of clothing production, consumption, and disposal is rapidly expanding, outpacing both regulation and recycling capacity. Overproduction and the Mountains of Clothing Waste

Each year, the world produces about 100 billion garments, according to UNEP (2021) – Sustainable Fashion Factsheet. Yet much of this clothing is worn only a few times—or never at all—before being discarded. The result is staggering: over 92 million tonnes of textile waste are generated annually (World Bank, 2022).

One of the most visible and alarming consequences is the emergence of "clothing mountains"—massive landfills of discarded textiles. In Chile's Atacama Desert, for example, up to 39,000 tonnes of used clothing arrive each year, largely from Europe, Asia, and North America. Much of this clothing is either burned or dumped in open landfills, causing toxic pollution (Source: Reuters, 2021). Similarly, in countries like Ghana and Kenya, large quantities of low-quality second-hand clothing from the Global North are dumped or burned due to poor reusability. According to the Changing Markets Foundation and UNCTAD, a significant portion of these imported clothes cannot be resold or reused due to their poor condition, contributing directly to local environmental and public health problems.

Sweden's Role in the Global Textile System Sweden, though a small market, plays a notable role in the global fashion economy. According to Naturvårdsverket (Swedish EPA), the average Swede purchases around 14 kg of textiles per person per year, with only about 4% of this material being recycled.

To address the problem, Sweden is implementing Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles starting in 2025, which will require companies to finance and organize the collection and
recycling of used clothing.


A Call for Circular Fashion
To solve the textile waste crisis, systemic change is needed. Institutions such as the European Environment Agency (EEA) and OECD advocate for a circular economy approach, where resources are reused and waste is minimized across the value chain.

Key strategies include:

  • Designing longer-lasting garments
  • Reducing overproduction and overconsumption
  • Expanding fiber-to-fiber recycling capacity
  • Scaling up reuse and upcycling of existing textiles
  • Implementing transparent supply chains
  • Promoting behavioral change through education and policy

Small-scale upcycling initiatives are already demonstrating what's possible. By transforming discarded garments into new, desirable products, we help extend the life of textiles that might otherwise end up in landfills or incinerators. My own work – turning preloved clothing into unique, upcycled pieces – is one such example, aiming not only to reduce waste but to showcase circular design as a creative and scalable alternative to fast fashion.

The European Union's Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles (2022) also outlines mandatory eco-design, stricter waste regulations, and bans on the destruction of unsold clothing—efforts that Sweden is aligning with at the national level.

Sources
United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP): www.unep.org

UNEP (2021) – Sustainable Fashion Factsheethttps://www.unep.org/resources/report/putting-brakes-fast-fashion

Ellen MacArthur Foundation: www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org

World Bank – Textile Waste and Sustainability Data (2022):
climateknowledgeportal.worldbank.org

Reuters: “In Chile's desert, used clothes pile up in growing environmental crisis” (2021)

Swedish Environmental Protection Agency (Naturvårdsverket): www.naturvardsverket.se

European Environment Agency (EEA): www.eea.europa.eu

European Commission – Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles (2022): ec.europa.eu

Changing Markets Foundation: “Trashion” Report (2022)

UNCTAD: Second-hand Clothes Trade and Global Waste Flows